(box lunch). In premodern Japan box
lunches, usually consisting of dried rice, rice balls (nigirimeshi), or sweet
potatoes, wrapped in a leaf or in the sheath of bamboo shoot, were eaten
chiefly by travelers and people who worked outdoors. In the Edo period
(1600-1868) elaborate meals were prepared and carried in tiered lacquer boxes
(jubako) on outings. Bento sold at theaters to be eaten during intermission
were called makunouchi bento (“entr’acte box lunches”), the prototype of
today’s shidashi bento, which are usually ordered in quantity and delivered by
the restaurant that prepares them. Since the middle of the Meiji period
(1868-1912) bento known as ekiben (“station box lunches”) have been sold at
railway stations. In recent years there has been a proliferation of shops that
specialize in take-out bento.
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